AFAR, June 2021

“Is it just a big mall?” asks seemingly everyone who isn’t Parisian.

Mais non, it is not just a big mall. Far from it. Rather, Samaritaine, which finally reopened its doors on June 23 after 16 long years of closure, renovations, and minor controversy is the ultimate grand magasin—a 215,000-square-foot department-meets-concept store, and then some. 

And no, there isn’t a “food court” either. 

There are, however, 12 drinking and dining venues, as well as the largest beauty department in all of Europe (36,000 square feet, to be exact) representing more than 600 brands ranging from high-end and renowned to indie designers. In September, there will also be a 72-room hotel with a Dior Cheval Blanc Spa said to have the biggest pool in all of Paris at nearly 98-feet long as well as a “smaller” pool (40 feet) in a private apartment overlooking the Seine. Because bien sûr.

But let’s start at the beginning, shall we?