From my perch, at a large table inside a window-enclosed porch, giant rattan fans spinning overhead, I see nothing but the Mediterranean. Not a bad seat as I tend to a crispy piece of wood-fired flatbread drizzled in olive oil pomegranate syrup. Outside, about 20 feet away, a woman floats on a raft in the midday sun and I wonder: Does she know she can hop off, walk a few feet, pick a shrub growing by the shore, and snack on it for lunch? Truth be told, she’d probably be better off getting dressed and joining me inside at the 15-year-old contemporary Levantine restaurant Helena, where Israeli chef Amos Sion highlights sea-foraged fare featuring edible plants such as Crithmum maritimum—better known sea fennel—and Mesembryanthemum crystallinum, or ice lettuce…