I HAVE THIS THING with hiking. Three years ago, while visiting the Golan Heights in northern Israel, I set out on a solo trek to see a waterfall at sunset and got turned around. I ended up scrambling up the side of the road after dark, flagging down a car for a ride back to where I had parked, 5 miles away. This May, on a trip back to Israel, I was determined to prove to myself that I could go for a wander that didn’t require rescue.

I decided to tackle the Negev Desert, which makes up 60% of Israel’s terrain and includes over 745 miles of trails. According to Shahar Shilo, director of the Friendly Negev Desert Tourism Association, not only are those trails well-marked but 90% of the Negev has cell service and the rescue units consist of volunteer ex-combat soldiers. “It’s the safest desert on the planet,” said Mr. Shilo.